Dishwasher Repair — Stop Leaks & Get Dishes Clean Again

Standing water after a cycle almost always points to a clogged or failed drain pump — food debris, glass shards, or a small object has blocked or jammed the pump impeller. Before calling, check and clean the filter basket at the bottom of the dishwasher (it lifts or twists out on most models) — a clogged filter is the most common culprit and sometimes the only fix needed.

If the filter is clear, the drain pump motor itself may have failed, or the drain hose has a kink or clog. On some models, a failing check valve allows water to flow back in after draining. We diagnose the root cause on-site and fix it completely. Schedule a drain diagnosis →

Poor wash performance is usually caused by clogged spray arms (the holes that jet water get blocked by mineral deposits or food), a failing wash pump that isn't generating enough pressure, or a faulty water inlet valve not letting enough hot water in. Hard water scale buildup over time reduces cleaning performance significantly — we see this frequently in Rockland and Westchester where water hardness is high.

Low water temperature is another common cause — if your water heater is set below 120°F, dishes won't clean or sanitize properly. Our technicians check water temperature at the machine, spray arm condition, and pump output pressure to identify the real issue. Book a service visit →

Dishwasher leaks are one of the more urgent repairs — water damage to cabinetry and flooring can escalate quickly. Common causes include a worn door gasket (the rubber seal around the door), a cracked or disconnected drain hose, a leaking water inlet valve, or a failed pump housing. On older dishwashers, the tub itself can develop cracks, especially along the bottom seams.

Too much detergent — or using non-dishwasher soap — causes excessive sudsing that overflows and looks like a leak. We locate the source of the leak precisely before quoting any repair. Get a leak diagnosed →

Wet dishes at the end of a cycle usually point to a failed heating element (the element that heats both the wash water and air-dries dishes during the final phase), a faulty thermostat, or a failed vent fan on models that use one. On some modern dishwashers, poor drying is a feature design — condensation drying models like Bosch intentionally don't use a heating element and rely on residual heat, which is less effective than traditional heat-dry.

If your dishwasher also fails to heat wash water (dishes come out with grease still on them), the heating element or high-limit thermostat is likely failed. We test heating system function as part of every service visit. Schedule a heating diagnosis →

If the dishwasher shows no signs of life — no lights, no sounds — check the circuit breaker and the door latch first. Most dishwashers won't start unless the door is fully latched and the latch sensor detects it's closed. A broken door latch is a very common "no-start" cause on dishwashers with significant mileage.

If the control panel lights up but the dishwasher won't begin a cycle, a failed control board, a stuck cycle, or a water supply issue (the dishwasher waiting to fill but not getting water) may be the cause. Resetting the dishwasher by holding the Start button for 3–5 seconds resolves stuck cycles on many brands. Book a no-start diagnosis →

A loud grinding or crunching sound during the wash cycle often means a small object — a bone fragment, a piece of glass, or a cap from a food container — has made it past the filter and into the drain pump. The pump impeller is shredding the object, which can damage the pump itself if the machine keeps running. Stop the cycle and check the filter and drain area immediately.

A steady buzzing or humming that's louder than normal often means the wash motor bearings are wearing out. Rattling during fill cycles usually points to a water inlet valve that's partially failing. None of these should be ignored — they typically get worse quickly. Get a noise diagnosis →

Modern dishwashers — especially Samsung, LG, and Bosch — display error codes when something goes wrong. Common codes include E1/LE (water inlet issues), OE/5E (drainage errors), HE (heating errors), and door latch errors. The code points to a system, but hands-on diagnosis is needed to determine if it's a sensor failure, a wiring issue, or the component itself that's failed.

Unresponsive touchpads or intermittently working buttons usually indicate a failing user interface board — a common issue on older touchpad-style dishwashers from all major brands. We carry control and UI boards for Samsung, LG, Bosch, KitchenAid, Whirlpool, GE, and more. See all brands we service →

If the dishwasher starts but never fills — you hear it try to run but there's no water — the water inlet valve is almost always the culprit. This solenoid valve opens to let water in at the start of a cycle and can fail in either direction (stuck closed means no fill; stuck open means constant fill and potential flooding). A clogged inlet valve screen can also restrict flow enough to prevent proper filling.

Before calling, confirm the supply valve under the sink is fully open and there's no kink in the supply line. If those check out, the inlet valve needs replacement — it's one of the most common dishwasher parts we replace. Schedule a service visit →