This is the most common dryer complaint. On electric dryers, the heating element itself burns out over time — it's a coiled wire that can break and stop producing heat entirely. The thermal fuse is another frequent cause: it's a one-time safety device that blows when the dryer overheats and must be replaced. On gas dryers, a failed igniter or gas valve coil prevents the burner from firing, leaving the drum tumbling cold air.

A clogged vent is often the overlooked root cause — restricted airflow causes the dryer to overheat, trip the thermal fuse, and stop heating. We always check vent condition along with the component diagnosis. Schedule a heating diagnosis →

A dryer that takes two or three cycles to dry one load is usually suffering from restricted airflow. The most common cause is a clogged exhaust vent — lint accumulates in the duct over years of use and can reduce airflow to a fraction of what's needed. A blocked or crimped duct behind the dryer, a lint screen that hasn't been cleaned, or a failed blower wheel can all cause the same symptom.

On some models, a faulty moisture sensor gives up inaccurate readings and ends cycles early even when clothes are still damp. This is a less obvious failure — the dryer seems to run normally but consistently under-dries. We check both the mechanical and sensor systems on every slow-drying diagnosis. Book a service visit →

Stop using the dryer immediately if you smell burning. The most common cause is lint accumulation near the heating element — over time, lint builds up in areas that are hard to reach with normal cleaning and can ignite. A worn or slipping drive belt can also generate a rubber-burning smell. On electric models, a failing heating element that's partially shorting out will produce a distinct electrical smell.

Overheating without a burning smell typically points to a blocked exhaust vent forcing the dryer to run hotter than designed, or a failed cycling thermostat that no longer regulates temperature. Both are fire hazards. Call us for same-day service at (845) 362-0900 →

A high-pitched squeal during operation almost always points to worn drum bearing slides or a failing drum bearing — the surfaces that support the drum as it rotates have worn down and are now metal-on-metal. A grinding sound often means the same, or a failing idler pulley (the wheel that keeps tension on the drive belt). Thumping usually indicates worn drum glides or felt seals at the front of the drum.

These noises tend to worsen over time and, if left unaddressed, can lead to a seized drum or a snapped belt. All of these are parts we stock for major brands and can typically replace in a single visit. Schedule a noise diagnosis →

When the dryer runs (you can hear the motor) but the drum isn't spinning, the drive belt has almost certainly snapped — it's the most common cause of this symptom. The drive belt is a long, thin belt that wraps around the drum, and it does eventually wear out and break after years of use. If the motor itself won't run at all, a failed door switch, a tripped thermal fuse, or a defective motor are more likely causes.

Belt replacement is a straightforward repair for an experienced technician and is usually completed in under an hour. We carry drive belts for Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE, Maytag, and all major brands. Book a repair visit →

A dryer that stops partway through a cycle is often overheating and triggering its thermal cut-off as a safety measure — almost always due to a blocked exhaust vent. It may restart after cooling down, only to stop again 20 minutes later. Other causes include a failing motor that overheats and cuts out, or a defective cycling thermostat. On timed-dry settings, a faulty timer motor can also cause premature cycle termination.

If your dryer runs fine for 10–20 minutes and then stops, overheating from vent restriction is the first thing to rule out. We check the full system — vent path, thermostat, motor, and timer — before completing any repair. Get a diagnosis →

Gas dryers use an igniter to light the gas burner and gas valve coils (solenoids) to open the valve. When the igniter fails, you'll see a faint glow (or no glow) near the burner assembly but the flame never catches. When a valve coil fails, the igniter glows and heats up, but the valve won't open to allow gas flow — a very common failure pattern on older gas dryers across all major brands.

Gas dryer repairs require specific training and care. Our technicians are experienced with gas appliances and perform all gas dryer repairs safely and to code. Schedule gas dryer service →

Modern dryers display error codes that point to specific system failures. Common ones include heating errors (HE, E1, F-01), thermistor failures (F-22, F-23), exhaust temperature errors, and motor errors (F-28, F-29). The code identifies the system, but not always whether it's a sensor failure, a wiring issue, or a component failure — that requires hands-on diagnosis.

Unresponsive control panels or buttons that work intermittently usually point to a failing user interface board or main control board. We're trained on diagnostic modes for all major brands and carry control boards for Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE, and more. See all brands we service →